Quadirikiri Cave: Light, Darkness, and a Bunch of Bats
Field Notes: Arikok National Park, Aruba
Date: December 10-20, 2020
Crawled into Quadirikiri Cave, where light and darkness fight for space, and bats aren’t thrilled to have visitors. The cave sits deep in Arikok National Park, carved into the limestone over thousands of years by water, wind, and time. Unlike most caves, this one isn’t completely dark, sunlight filters through holes in the ceiling, spilling into the chambers like spotlights. It feels less like a cave, more like an ancient cathedral, the light hitting the rock walls in a way that makes them glow.
The air inside is thick, humid, carrying the smell of damp earth and guano (which is the nice way of saying bat poop). The bats, dozens of them, hang from the ceiling, unimpressed by the humans below. They shift every now and then, rustling their wings, reminding me that I am a guest in their home. Quadirikiri isn’t just a geological wonder; it’s an active habitat, a space that belongs more to the bats than to any of us.
The limestone walls hold the story of water, long before this was a cave, it was underwater. The rock is shaped by ancient coral and marine deposits, proof of how the island itself has changed over time. Aruba’s landscape might seem dry and unmovable now, but this place is a reminder that nothing stays the same.
Locals also tell stories of Quadirikiri being more than just rock and bats. One legend speaks of a rebellious Indigenous girl who was locked inside by her father, only to disappear, her spirit escaping through the light holes. Standing there, watching beams of sunlight cut through the dust-filled air, it’s easy to believe this cave holds more than just geological history.
Noticed signs of wear, graffiti scratched into the walls, footprints in places they shouldn’t be. The more accessible a site is, the more impact humans leave behind. The cave has been here for thousands of years, but the damage we do happens fast. Respecting places like this isn’t complicated: stay on the paths, don’t touch the rock, and definitely don’t wake the bats.
Leaving the cave, the shift from cool darkness to Aruba’s relentless heat is instant. The landscape outside looks even drier, harsher, a sharp contrast to the humid, hidden world inside. A reminder that nature keeps secrets, and sometimes, the most fascinating places aren’t the ones in plain sight.
