Rice Paddy Fields Of Guizhou

Field Notes: Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, Guizhou, China

Date: June 23 - July 7, 2019

Location: Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, Guizhou, China

Backstory of Qiandongnan

Guizhou is one of China’s most ecologically and culturally rich regions, home to the Miao and Dong ethnic groups. The Miao people are known for their elaborate silver jewelry, intricate embroidery, and deep-rooted traditions, while the Dong are famous for their wooden stilt houses, lush rice paddies, and communal singing. This prefecture is known for its intricate rice paddy terraces, centuries-old wooden architecture, and strong preservation of traditional customs. The region’s mountainous terrain has shaped the way its people farm, build, and sustain their way of life, creating a deep harmony between human activity and the natural environment.

Rice Paddy Research

I spent much of my time in Guizhou learning about rice paddy farming with the Dong community, who have perfected the art of terraced farming over centuries. Unlike flatland rice cultivation, the terraced system in Guizhou is a brilliant adaptation to the mountainous terrain, preventing soil erosion while maximizing arable land. The terraces act as natural reservoirs, collecting rainwater that gradually irrigates each level below. This system reduces the need for artificial irrigation, making it a highly sustainable form of agriculture.

During my stay, I learned that rice farmers follow the rhythm of the seasons. The fields are flooded in early spring, creating a mirror-like effect that reflects the sky. This helps protect young rice plants from temperature fluctuations while also attracting beneficial insects. By summer, the terraces transform into a sea of green as the rice matures. Come autumn, the fields turn golden, and harvesting begins.

I also got a crash course in companion planting, a technique where fish are raised in the paddies alongside the rice. The fish help control pests and provide natural fertilizer, creating a self-sustaining ecosystem. It’s a fascinating example of ecological farming that has existed for centuries but is still relevant today as the world looks for sustainable agricultural solutions.

One of the most unexpectedly joyful parts of my stay was being guided by a group of kindergartners. Their school sat on the edge of a cliff overlooking the vast rice paddies, and let me tell you, these kids knew their stuff. They giggled as they led me through the fields, pointing out how the irrigation worked, where the best reflections of the sky appeared, and showing me the best (and worst) places to step. Their connection to the land was obvious it was their playground, their classroom, and their history all at once.

Another unforgettable experience was pounding rice in a traditional wooden log mortar. It’s an essential part of the process, removing the husk from the harvested rice so it’s ready to eat. The setup was simple but effective a hollowed-out log, a heavy wooden pestle, and a whole lot of rhythmic teamwork. Traditionally, rice pounding was a communal event, and I could feel that energy as I joined in. I even captured a video of the process, a fun little memento of this timeless tradition.

I also had the chance to explore the region’s famous wooden stilt houses. These architectural masterpieces, built entirely without nails, rely on a complex system of interlocking joints. Elevated to withstand Guizhou’s heavy rains and humid climate, they’re a testament to the engineering brilliance of the Dong people. Walking through them felt like stepping into a living piece of history.

The Miao & Me

One of my absolute favorite moments? Spending an evening with the Miao community. I was casually exploring when a group of locals invited me to join their evening gathering. Before I knew it, I was being dressed in traditional Miao clothing, wrapped in vibrant embroidery and adorned with silver accessories that jingled with every step. We laughed, swapped stories, and chatted about their way of life, preservation efforts, and the push-and-pull of tradition and how things are now. It was one of those surreal, heartwarming experiences that make you realize how big and yet how beautifully connected the world really is.

The Miao people take great pride in their heritage, with storytelling, embroidery, and song deeply woven into their traditions. I learned how each embroidered pattern carries meaning, often symbolizing family history, folklore, or spiritual beliefs. Their hospitality and openness left a lasting impression on me, reinforcing how important it is to preserve and celebrate indigenous cultures.

Reflections

Guizhou completely stole my heart. Between the breathtaking rice fields, the warmth of the Dong and Miao people, and the deep rooted traditions still thriving today, this trip was an unforgettable blend of nature, history, and culture. The experience of being led through the paddies by tiny, knowledgeable guides, pounding rice in a centuries-old tradition, and getting wrapped up in the energy of a Miao gathering was something I’ll carry with me forever. There’s so much wisdom in the way these communities live, and honestly, we could all learn a thing or two from their way of life.